New York for Thanksgiving

New York remains one of the world’s great cities and as always, having visited, I leave wishing I had much more time to spend there. 

We had a great visit to reunite with dear friends Anne and Bill, whom we worked with in Oman 20 years ago. Now in Austin, TX, they rented a small flat in Brooklyn for a week and invited us to join them for a few days.

Bill, Susan and Anne in Washington Square Park

The drive was an easy 7-hours, with a couple of stops. Little traffic on Thanksgiving day as most were already at their destination. We arrived before Anne and Bill so picked up the keys from the flat owner. I’d brought along some vacuum-wrapped ham procured in Spain and a tin of foie gras and a great loaf of bread for our Thanksgiving meal, which we tucked into around 9pm.

The flat was pretty basic but the trip was less about luxury than seeing our pals, eating, drinking and laughing. (They would not take any money from us for the rental.) But I should add that the second-floor flat was right above a bar that featured LOUD karaoke on Friday night, til 4 am! Bill actually called New York’s Finest to complain, was told that non-emergency (violent) calls had an 8-hour wait…

Two blocks from the L Train (subway)which got us into midtown Manhattan in 10 minutes, we spent two fun days poking around the East Village and Midtown. We saw a fun Christmas Market with creative stalls and food vendors. 

Susan buying earrings at the Market


Making Churros (Mexican fried bread) at the Christmas Market 


We then made our way to a big fancy food mall that specializes in Italian food, Eataly: 

We also took the elevator up the 14th floor which has a bar and enjoyed a round of drinks:


That night we dined at Nomad Bar, highly recommended by a friend, and I ordered the $38 chicken pot pie. It arrived with a spoonful of truffle mouse and a skewer of grilled foie gras, both of which were introduced and vigorously whirled into the steaming hot pie, melting and flavoring the inside. It was rich and glorious.



On Saturday we visited the Tenement Museum in the Lower East Side, home to millions of immigrants over the last two centuries. Initially densely German, after their generations succeeded and moved out it became home to Eastern Europeans and Jews, and finally Chinese. It was once the most densely populated part of the planet. A hundred years ago, NYC’s population was greater than it is today. We did not visit one of the tenement flats (another visit) but did visit the ground floor/basement business that makes up, still, most NYC apartment buildings. When owned by a German, this street-level business was a German pub, selling lagers to local residents, owned 150 years ago by a Prussian and his Hanoverian wife. (There was no “Germany” back then. The couple likely spoke different dialects and would have had trouble communicating initially.) There would have been several of these on each block. On Sundays—the only day off work for most—they’d be packed. Beers were $.05, and once ordered, you could take your plate to the table and fill it with food, purchased and cooked by the wife.

BTW, the USA has no official language owing to the debate that took place about it as the country was forming, we learned. Many pushed for German as the choice, so high was the level of immigration. (25% of Americans have German lineage). As they couldn’t settle on one or the other, it was deemed there would not be one.

Lunch on Saturday was also special—Babbo, a temple to Italian food, which Susan and I had visited before. 

Lunch at Babbo


This was followed with another old friend reunion, Elayne, who we have known for decades and is a professor at NYU. We quickly began verbally pummeling Trump. 

Sunday we left at 10am and got home by 5pm, not bad given how busy the roads were. It was, as always, great to see the dogs. 


Granada and Alhambra

Alhambra, the exquisite mostly Moorish fort that overlooks Granada... sounds exotic, doesn't it? Alhambra. Like the casbah. They beckon by name alone.

Built on an old Roman foundation in the 14th century and decorated with impeccable Arabesque motifs, it was augmented with the addition of a splendid Renaissance palace by Spain's reconquering catholic King Charles V. In 1492 it became the official court of Ferdinand and Isabella, and it was here that they underwrote Christopher Columbus' voyage that ultimately led him to North America.

It is a fort, a palace, a summer palace, and gardens and is to be seen to be believed. We have seen the magnificent Taj Mahal, and Alhambra tops it. 

It sits atop a hill, above Granada, and facing the Albaycin, the ancient Moorish part of the city, which offers superb views of Alhambra, which it faces across a valley:

View of Alhambra from down in the valley, the old town of Granada. 


We arrived in Granada late afternoon on a Sunday, armed with Alhambra tickets that allowed entrance to the "good stuff" at 2pm. (Ticketed visitors are allowed into the main buildings at :30-minute intervals). However Charles' Palace is free to all, so we went in ahead of our scheduled time. The interior of the rectangular palace has a circular courtyard: 


Now in the ticketed portion of the visit. View of Palazio Nazaries, the Emir's private quarters, from the Patio de los Arrayanes:


View from the Nazaries:


Sam view from within the Nazaries:


A 20-minute walk through gorgeous gardens (the Generalife) brings you to the Emir's summer palace:


View of the Albaycin from Alhambra


To get to Alhambra you walk, taxi or bus up a hill. We walked and after about 15 minutes entered through the lower of two entrances- clearly the less-used one. (Tickets are taken deeper in the complex.) As we left around 6pm it was so deserted that Susan had some fun with the door: 


A few random pics:







En Route to Granada: Arcos de la Frontera

Leaving our friend at charming Chiclana we headed north, then east, into the mountains and eventually to Arcos de la Frontera, probably the most visited of the famous hilltop towns. Towns named "de la Frontera" exist from the time of the catholic reconquest of Moorish Spain. As the Christians pushed south, they built border towns, to them "of the frontier"- "de la Frontera."

It was a quiet Sunday, which suited us well. We parked in an underground car park in the new part of town and began a leisurely walk up into the old town.

Homes in Frontera towns must by law remain whitewashed, and the view from afar is captivating, as are the views into the surrounding valleys.

Here is Susan looking from the edge of the main square, home to the Church of San Pedro:

That's a hotel to the right, and an ideal location for an overnight stay in this charming town.

As is was Sunday, it was largely quiet with few open shops. But we did enjoy the architecture and the scenery, and a couple of locals were showing birds of prey, still used in hunting regionally, off the square:

The streets were mostly deserted though as our visit also coincided with late lunch time, so locals were indoors. Though there was one local who caught my eye: